De Bortoli 2006 Deen De Bortoli Vat 5 Botrytis Semillon

Short and sweet this week. The wine that is.

The Vat 5 is the little sister of the illustrious De Bortoli Noble One.

Both are fantastic little dessert wines - produced by allowing the Botrytis fungus (the "noble rot") to eviscerate the grape, and thus concentrate and distil what is left of the juices into a sweet, sugary delight.

The Noble One is $30+ (for a 375ml bottle). The Vat 5 is less than $10.

Now, it is certainly not the god-given nectar that is Noble One. But then, nothing else really is. The Vat 5 is certainly a little lighter in style, but it is still a cracker - and, at this price, it is also ridiculously spectacular value.

It shows a deep, gilded radiance in the glass. And the nose gives a lovely over-ripe apricot aroma, tinged with a warmth that is reminiscent of a nicely, raisined Kevin Muscat.

In the mouth, it is all honey and lemons, and as thick and velvety as a Brummy chav-hag in a Juicy Couture tracksuit.

It tickles the tonsils like golden honey, while its deliciousness lingers on your lips and flirts dangerously with the inner cavities of your cheeks. It is the gift that keeps on giving. I told you it was good value.

A good stickie is to dinner, what a cigarette is to coitus. Forget the mints. What you want after your main course is cleared away is a quality cheese, some bikkies, and a half bottle of the De Bortoli.

At this price, you should do it at least once a week.

Rating: 8.5
Drink with: Cheese and bikkies, or even cheese on toast if you must.
Price: $9.95 (375ml)