Grant Burge 2004 Filsell Shiraz

This week we've got a big rough red, with a sharp nose and an acid tongue. But that's enough about Ms Gillard.

Fortunately, the Filsell is not running for parliament because it’s none of those things. Well, it is red I guess. But thankfully that’s where the comparison ends.

Filsell is the little brother of the great Meshach Shiraz. The grapes come from the same vineyard and the 90-year-old vines are so delicate that they live in constant fear of stiff breeze. No machines here. Hand picking all the way.

This '04 had been patiently gathering dust in my cellar for a while. It still had many more years up its sleeve, but I was confident it had thrown off the shackles of youth and so I dived in.

In the glass, it gives great colour – deep, dark red. More Hendricks than Gillard.

The legs are long, and the hefty hit of alcohol sends a haze of perfumed dark fruit booming from the glass. It’s as randy as Russell Brand and as big as Ron Jeremy’s hedgehog.

And the drinking is awesome. There’s a palpable punch of smoked berryliciousness to chew on, and it finishes as long and smooth as a supermodel’s pins.

It’s fair to say I was all over this like a catamite on a Catholic priest.

$35 from the cellar door, but the ‘08 is selling about town at the moment for $25. Happy days.

Rating: 8.5

Drink with: Jamie's slow-cooked lamb shoulder

Price: $25-$35

Image from www.grantburgewines.com.au