Grant Burge 2004 Filsell Shiraz

This week we've got a big rough red, with a sharp nose and an acid tongue. But that's enough about Ms Gillard.

Fortunately, the Filsell is not running for parliament because it’s none of those things. Well, it is red I guess. But thankfully that’s where the comparison ends.

Filsell is the little brother of the great Meshach Shiraz. The grapes come from the same vineyard and the 90-year-old vines are so delicate that they live in constant fear of stiff breeze. No machines here. Hand picking all the way.

This '04 had been patiently gathering dust in my cellar for a while. It still had many more years up its sleeve, but I was confident it had thrown off the shackles of youth and so I dived in.

In the glass, it gives great colour – deep, dark red. More Hendricks than Gillard.

The legs are long, and the hefty hit of alcohol sends a haze of perfumed dark fruit booming from the glass. It’s as randy as Russell Brand and as big as Ron Jeremy’s hedgehog.

And the drinking is awesome. There’s a palpable punch of smoked berryliciousness to chew on, and it finishes as long and smooth as a supermodel’s pins.

It’s fair to say I was all over this like a catamite on a Catholic priest.

$35 from the cellar door, but the ‘08 is selling about town at the moment for $25. Happy days.

Rating: 8.5

Drink with: Jamie's slow-cooked lamb shoulder

Price: $25-$35

Image from www.grantburgewines.com.au

Julicher 2008 Pinot Noir and Alana Estate 2008 Pinot Noir

Part II - Martinborough

Be vewy, vewy qwiet. I'm hunting Pinots.

We've jumped the ferry to the North Island and wound our way along the serpentine mountain road from Wellington into what is undoubtedly the most agreeable wine region I've encountered.

The town of Martinborough is all class. A plethora of fine cafes and restaurants. A wonderful Arcadian backdrop. Dinner frolicking in the distant fields. Vines otherwise surrounding the town.

Best of all though is the brilliantly compact set of cellar doors.

No need to risk the booze bus in Martinborough. There are 20 odd vineyards within but a short stroll of the town square.

So, have a chat with the energetic Alex in the Wine Centre. Get the skinny on the best of the bottled stuff. Grab a map. And then get cracking.

Julicher 2008 Pinot Noir

First up is the suggestively named Julicher (it has a soft "j" - like in yogging).

You need to make an appointment. And well you should.

Sitting out on the Te Muna Road, in the company of such illustrious companions as Escarpment and Craggy Range, it is a homely operation that managed to claim the top gong at the Air NZ Wine Awards for its '08 Pinot Noir.

Wim Julicher and Sue Darling welcome you to their kitchen table like old friends and happily share a generous glass with you as they talk enthusiastically, but humbly, through their wines. I tell you, that's good work if you can get it.

The '08 Pinot is simply superb. It is an arrestingly beautiful deep purple. Almost black. Like it has sucked up all of the surrounding light just so it can send it back at you in concentrated flashes and sparks as you twirl it in the glass.

On the nose, it is a capricious combination of earthy spice and sweet chocolately goodness. It's a truly arousing aroma that will play Mozart with your feelings and havoc with your heart.

But, of course, it's the drinking that really counts. And, happily, there is no doubt that this is Pinot Noir at its hedonistic best.

Upfront, it is thuck and rutch; big and delicious and fruity. But it's also wonderfully soft and overflows gently with silken delicacy that lingers pleasingly until you're ready to take your next mouthful.

We were also lucky enough to try the '09. It had only recently been put in the bottle, which meant it was perhaps a little subdued. Mr Julicher is clearly a modest bloke, but I could tell from his subtle grin that he expects it to be every bit as good as the award-winning '08. I suggest you seek it out and buy it up before it sells out.

I managed to drink a lot of spectacular Pinot in Martinborough. The Julicher was far, far and away the best.

Rating: 9.5/10

Drink with: Martinborough Hotel's pie of the day

Price: NZ $40

Buy it in Oz at www.nzwineonline.com.au

Alana Estate 2008 Pinot Noir

We really only visited this cellar door because we had time to kill and someone had told us they put on a free cheese platter with the tasting.

Ominously, we were welcomed at the gate with a sign that threatened: "Shotgun in use".

Sadly, it was no more hospitable in the tasting room. The woman manning the bottles wore a face so sour she may well have just finished sucking a lemon soaked in off milk. She glared furiously and could not be drawn into uttering anything more than a grunt in response to our attempted pleasantries.

Now, I'm willing to be open-minded. Maybe her cat had run away. Maybe Dick Cheney was doing a stint as consultant winemaker and had shot the cat in an unfortunate hunting accident involving the shotgun. Maybe she'd just had a big night sampling the product.

Whatever.

But, here's a tip. If you are going to take the trouble of opening a cellar door (and certainly nobody's holding a shotgun to your head in that regard), how about engaging people who are at least mildly receptive when customers come to visit?

Anyway, the wine. Most of what was ungraciously splashed into our dirty little tasting glass was remarkably unremarkable. But since I came in search of Pinots, let's go with that.

It was as red as our temporary PM's hair. Which is to say that it was an insipid, rusty, russety orange. Certainly it was not at all the lovely deep purple on offer in nearby vineyards.

It smelt of dirty nappy and digested mushrooms, with perhaps a twist of chop chop chicken served fresh from the can. In the mouth there was a tannic burn reminiscent of urinal cake and lighter fluid.

The only other people in the tasting room were a couple of Yanks who we had earlier noticed walking from vineyard to vineyard. Despite the fact they were on foot, they still spat.

Oh, and there was no cheese platter on offer either. Just a frigid room full of midgie insects, ordinary wine and unpleasant surliness.

Disappointing on all fronts.

Rating: 5/10

Drink with: BYO cheese

Price: $50-$60